The Wise Buffalo

In the narrow and winding road an hour outside of Chennai, I was sitting in a car, having some conversation with my colleagues.  We felt rather tired after being trapped in Chennai's horrendous traffic for hours, but fortunately we finally reached the outskirt of the city.  The view around us was nice.  Around us are grass fields, growing temporarily to cover the plots of rice fields that were probably harvested a few months ago.  Cows and buffaloes were peacefully grazing, as our driver pass them by in our MPV.

In one part of the journey, a hundred meters ahead of our car, we saw a buffalo.  He seemed to have been tied to a rope by his owner just by the side of the road, so that he could graze while waiting for his owner to come back.  But as this buffalo took a break from his grazing, he decided to climb up the bank and stand in the middle of the road instead.  Our car approached him.  He saw us coming.  He looked at us with his peaceful eyes.  No anger, no fear, no excitement, no panic.  He was sending a simple message to the arrogant, noisy, ugly metal structure that was coming fast to bully him off the road: "I am not moving....."

So as we came close to him, our driver hit the break, turned his steering wheel to the right to slowly pass by him.  As our car left the spot, I said to my colleagues: "Something to learn from this buffalo.  We should always be able to look at someone in the eyes, stand our ground and say no....."

The dreadful "C" word

I have been traveling to India for business frequently in the last couple of years. It's a country that I enjoy visiting, for its rich history, depth of cultural heritage and great hospitality.  I have also been a huge fan of India's famous epics, the Mahabarata and Ramayana, and it is great to see the places that inspire these amazing stories. One main advantage of being very involved in developing businesses in India is that I get to see and visit places, meet people and observe things that many other people would not have the privilege to experience.


In one of the trips, I attended a logistics conference and listened to a captivating presentation done by a journalist. He did a recount of his 8 days of investigative journalism to tell the story of a life of an Indian truck driver. To do a credible story he decided to disguise himself as a truck driver's assistant, fully immersing himself to the task of delivering goods from Chennai (south of India) to Delhi (north of India). Unbeknownst to him, he would witness the level of inhumane hardship that the drivers had to face throughout the journey. He was so taken by his experience that he did a passionate presentation to raise awareness of this social issue, and managed to mesmerize the audience for more than 45 minutes.


His presentation was eye opening to most people, even to those who knew but chose to ignore. He described the poor hygiene condition the drivers face, the horrible abuse they receive on the road, the unaccounted risks to their lives due to poor safety standards and poor road conditions, their severe separation from their family, the little acknowledged psychological and physical side effects that include injuries or sexual diseases they contracted. He also highlighted in many ways the main cause and enabler of all these problems: the rampant corruption across the board.


Road conditions are poor because the construction budget that was made available went to someone's pocket instead. The abuse to the drivers happened because the state border patrol wants to have that extra money, otherwise he will block the vehicle from passing through. The poor truck condition were allowed to pollute the road and endanger the driver's safety, because the law enforcement authorities can be bought easily and cheaply. Corruption to society is like bacteria to our body: it takes life when the immune system is weak, and it can cause other illness to come in.


While corruption exists everywhere, it seems that it is not well understood.


First, most people like to think that there is a higher moral ground position against corruption. Many global corporations and some countries announce that they have "zero tolerance to corruption".  In practice most of them who wants to do business in India or trade with India will still use the services of those truck drivers, indirectly pay the border crossing bribes, close their eyes and ears to the hardship of the drivers, as long as they can distribute their goods. The problem with this hypocritical approach is that nobody gets to understand why and how the corruption happened in the first place. At the end,  it will be perpetuated or made worse, not better.


Second, most people thinks that criticism on corruption will help solve the problem. Some rating agencies publishes the annual analysis of the most corrupt countries in the world. The problem is that this type of analysis helps nobody, offers no solution, and does nothing in changing the behaviors of those who does the corruption in the first place.


Third, most people thinks that corruption is a black or white matter. A UK anti corruption act considers gift giving, or favor giving as an act of corruption and violators will be prosecuted under this law.  It also specifies that if one uses someone who uses someone who does gift giving, then one is still guilty for corruption. This applies in UK, or to anyone in the world who deals with the UK. The problem of creating a stupid law is that it will not be enforceable, and in the mean time it wastes everyone's time.   Business is built on relationship, whether it is done in UK or in India. Relationship involves some form of favors and gestures, whether we like to acknowledge it or not.


The governments, policy makers, corporate leaders and individuals should take a practical approach to corruption, not a philosophical  or a moral one.  Just like bacteria, corruption can be eradicated only through good hygiene and better immune system. Therefore in every country there has to be good organizational "hygiene", which involves transparency and regular processes of check and balance. There has to be strong immune system, by putting honest people at the key positions while in the mean time ensuring that nobody can stay in power too long.  Governance and policies are key to eradication of corruption, but only when it is made at a practical level.


As per the problem of truck drivers living condition in India, there is a solution. I have been a part of a government sponsored project to promote rail as an alternative mode of transportation in India. After intensive work for more than 1.5 years, we are nearing the implementation time.  This project has a powerful social impact: it will dramatically reduce the need of truck drivers to drive long distances.  This helps the life of these drivers as they can stay closer with their family, have a better lifestyle and have less exposure to the border corruption. It is just a little example that practical solutions are everywhere. We just have to start by acknowledging the problem, not pretending we are above it.


Pune to Mumbai, by road
Friday, July 20, 2012

Time vs. Money

Bali is one of my family's favorite places in the world.  To the majority of people Bali is known for its beautiful beaches, surfing and tourist destinations.  But there are much more to Bali than that.  One of Bali's less known treasures is the indigenous farming method called Subak, a way of farming that has been fine-tuned over centuries by the locals. A key part of this social-technical-spiritual method is the effective water irrigation system that brings water from its source to hundreds and thousands of acres of land, using simply the law of gravity and clever contouring of land. Add the two volcanoes, the many rivers, the forests and the fertile soil, Bali is a place where people can marvel and appreciate the tremendous gift of nature, all in one small island.  

Rice field near mount Agung, west of Bali

In my most recent trip there, I had a chat with a farmer friend in the middle of a rice field, as we watched the sun set. He shared with me the story on how Bali is rapidly losing the knowledge of farming that has been built over centuries.  The saddest part is not only that it is disappearing, but that it is not being replaced by anything better.  First, more and more villas are being constructed to replace the rice fields, many are done with speculative intention for capital appreciation, and many with complete disregard of Balinese culture.  One Balinese told me "people build villas in Bali to be among the rice fields - but at this rate there will not be any rice fields to see...".   


Second, Balinese farmers have been instructed over the last 40 years or so to focus on maximizing the output of the land, using modern techniques specific for this goal.  The original idea was so that Indonesia could produce its own sustainable supply of rice for its vast population.  It was a noble idea when it was initiated 40 years ago, when Indonesia was trying to achieve higher level prosperity for its people. But just like everything else, a good idea of the past will turn bad if it is no longer suitable to the present condition. 


A major consequence of this program is a habit for exploitation for short term gains.  Gone is the high quality Balinese rice that takes 6 months to grow.  It is replaced by a lower grade hybrid rice that takes only 4 months to harvest.  Instead of producing 2 harvests, the farmers are told to harvest 3 times per year.  Instead of using natural compost, they are trained to use chemical fertilizer.  Instead of the natural method of pest control which requires manual effort, they are told to use a short cut of using pesticide.  The farmer told me, that as an indication of the toxicity level of the water and soil, the fish and eels that used to swim in the rice fields are all gone due to the poison (and yet we will happily eat the rice).  Instead of a traditional crop rotation to maintain the fertility of the land, they are told to plant only a single type of rice all the time (monoculture).   Produce-produce-produce! Time is money!

Time is money.  This simple phrase describes the philosophy that has driven most people's life in the current age.  I used to think that it only applies to the city dwellers like me.   Most of the city dwellers work in corporations or government, spending most of their time making someone else richer.  But even the multi-billionaire businessmen and women are not spared from the rush; they also need to make sure the highest and fastest return on their investments.  Even doctors, tutors, and other services are rushing their clients and patients so that the can meet more patients.  I went to my daughter's school a few months ago where parents are lined up to a 10 minutes time slot to each teacher they want to meet.  10 minutes.... we haven't even finished introducing ourselves when the bell rang and we were to told move to the next teacher that we want to meet.  Can't the school allocate more days for a more comfortable, complete and thorough parent-teacher meetings?  After all we are talking about children here, not sports cars or the latest gossip from CNN....But again, time is money.  


Perhaps it would still be fine if time-is-money philosophy is contained in the cities. But as you can see, it is not. What is happening in Bali is also happening in every other farm land in Indonesia, in Asia, in the world. What is causing the problems in the farms is the same problem that is causing the teacher's and doctor's behavior in the city.  The revealing fact about this is that the farmers benefit the least from the rush.  The money will be made by the middle men and the distribution chains.  It is not the farmers that want to rush - it is the people who makes the most money from it.  Human beings are now slaves to money and there is no escaping from it, even in the most pristine corners of the world.


I remember a horror movie I watched a while ago, where there is a virus that can turn people into zombies.  Those that turned into zombies will not realize what has gotten into them and will start attacking the "normal humans". Those that are bitten by the zombie will turn into one within hours.  Soon enough the whole world is filled with these dreadful zombies.  The "normal" human beings became the outcast, hiding in darkness trying to survive. I see some resemblance between the zombie virus in that movie and the philosophy of time is money.  Many people may not realize how much the influence of this philosophy has crept in to their daily lives. Even more people may not realize that by allowing it to creep in, we are contributing to the spread of the contagion.  


But what is the alternative? 


In my view, the first thing to do is to understand that this philosophy is wrong.  It is important to separate the concept of time vs. the concept of money.  In our life in this world, time is limited, finite.  Money is unlimited and never enough.   Time allows us to realize our dreams, it allows us to stay healthy.   Time allows compassion and creativity to flourish.  To me, the amount of time to do the things you care for is the ultimate measure of prosperity.  As for money : what is it really worth if it can't buy any of the above? 

Its all about soul

It was 8 pm in the evening; I was riding a bus home from my office.  I was getting hungry and craved for a nice, authentic Japanese food.  I knew exactly where to go – I’ve been there many times, either by myself or with my family.  This restaurant has always been very cozy, with a bunch of loyal returning customers, accumulated since its start more than 17 years ago.  2 middle age ladies have been working there since then, as waitresses and order takers.  One of them is married to the chef.  They never talk too much to their customers, but the food never fails to delight me.  The most authentic Japanese food in Singapore, I always said.  I think all returning customers who often queue to get a seat also share my view.

So as my bus neared the stop where the restaurant is, I decided to rush to the bus door and alight.  I have noticed over the last 1 year or so that this restaurant has changed its façade.  A massive renovation took place, slick furniture was being put in to replace the old ones.  The rather ordinary front entrance was replaced by all-glass wall.  They retain the name of the restaurant, but created a big signboard to replace the old tiny one.  Most interestingly, there is now a valet service for those who drive their vehicles to the restaurant.  In short, this restaurant has been infused with a big dose of “luxury”.

So I got in – oblivious to all of this fancy stuff.  I just wanted my favorite Yakitori, Salmon Sashimi and Sake.  But as I entered I noticed something very different.  Only one of the 2 old ladies was there.  There were 4 waitresses instead of only those 2.  There was obviously a new manager as she wore a different uniform and eagerly greeted me.  She brought me to my table, immediately asked if I want to have a beer.   I saw the old waitress standing rather quiet at the back.  Something is amiss, I thought. I also noticed I was the only other customer there – but I thought it maybe because it was not a weekend.

At the end of the meal I was asked by the manager – how was my food.  I said I don’t like how the yakitori tasted – it feels like a fake Japanese food, tasteless and rather under-cooked.  It was so bad I couldn’t even touch the second one.  I don’t like the salmon sashimi – it feels they cut corners on the meat.  The manager was quick to apologize and rushed back to the cashier to give me a discount.  But the damage has been done – the restaurant did not feel the same anymore. 

The old lady came to me, bringing the bill and apologizing.  I said “I really don’t understand what has happened to your restaurant – the food quality has gone really down”.  She nodded her head and said “yes, a new owner is here.  My sister and her husband (the chef) have been asked to leave.  I am the only one here – and today is my last day.  Many of old customers like you have also complained”. 

I said – “oh – that’s a pity….”.  She said with a rather sad smile “yes, after 17 years…..”. 

So as I walked back to the bus station to make my way home, I realized I have just witnessed a sad example of how good reputation built over 17 years can be tarnished in just one day.  

It is a very good reminder: good things are created with soul.  No amount of money, luxury or style can replace it.